Archive for ‘Where to Go’

Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum

By Chrissie, 22 November, 2009, No Comment

The Museum of Fine Arts is Boston’s grand museum, but the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum around the corner, at 280 The Fenway, www.gardnermuseum.org, (617) 278-5156, is Boston’s jewel.

In the late 19th century Mrs. Gardner and her husband traveled the world collecting art. Their home, built in the style of a 15th-century Venetian palace, houses great works from Europe, Asia, and the Middle East along with Mrs. Gardiner’s eccentric personal touches like a moonstone covering a lock of Robert Browning’s hair.

The eccentric Venetian-style palazzo built about a century ago that is crammed with 2,500 of Mrs. Gardner’s acquisitions. Her will warns that if the permanent collection is disturbed, it will be given to Harvard; that partly explains the empty frames of two Rembrandts and a Vermeer taken along with other pieces in a 1990 robbery that is unsolved. Consider buying the $4 audio guide or $16 paperback guide because much of the collection is unlabeled.

Visitors with the name Isabella are admitted free; everyone else pays $10.

Southie: Shopping @ the South End Open Market

By Chrissie, 22 November, 2009, No Comment

The South End Open Market
540 Harrison Avenue, 617-481-2257
www.southendopenmarket.com

The South End Open Market takes place every Sunday through October from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. (except on holiday weekends, like this one).

This is Boston’s version of London’s Portobello market, with vintage clothes sellers and young fashion and jewelry designers rubbing elbows with artists and cheesemakers and antiques dealers.

What’s exciting about this market is that it changes each week. So, some Sundays you’ll discover a local artist who is there only that day. Everyone sells from tables beneath white tents.

Southie: 28 Degrees Bar

By Chrissie, 22 November, 2009, No Comment

28 Degrees
1 Appleton Street, 617-728-0728
www.28degrees-boston.com

28 Degrees is a bar that shimmers with flashy cocktails, a flashy circular bar and an even flashier party going on inside. There are Bellinis, pomegranate cosmos and Herradura tequila and Cointreau margaritas to be downed with a mixed crowd of Euro-students, chic-beyond-belief adults and neighborhood regulars. This bar alone fills Boston’s glamour quotient.

Southie Shopping: SoWa Artswalk

By Chrissie, 22 November, 2009, No Comment

SoWa, a strip of blocks south of Washington Street, is where you’ll find Boston’s emerging artists. Try both the 450 Harrison Building and the artists’ studios at 500 Harrison Avenue, which is open to the public on the first Friday of each month all summer. (Check for times at www.sowaartwalk.com.)

The city’s art scene has shifted to Harrison from Newbury Street, says Bernard Toale, whose Toale Gallery has been at 450 Harrison since 1992 (617-482-2477; www.bernardtoalegallery.com).

“The art and the clientele in the South End is younger and funkier,” he says. “First Fridays are big happening scenes, with a younger, urban, new South End crowd. I’ve been around a long time, but I’d say the South End is made up of a lot of younger galleries showing newer artists, and not just local artists.”

Southie: Cyclorama @ Boston Center for the Arts

By Chrissie, 22 November, 2009, No Comment

Cyclorama @ Boston Center for the Arts
539 Tremont Street, 617-426-5000
www.bcaonline.org

Catch an avant-garde art exhibition or a contemporary play at the Cyclorama. This 23,000-square-foot rotunda is part of the Boston Center for the Arts, and also offers a range of community events and is home to the Community Music Center of Boston, the Boston Ballet Costume Shop, three small theaters and a rehearsal studio.

Southie: Flour Bakery + Café

By Chrissie, 22 November, 2009, No Comment

Flour Bakery + Café
12 Farnsworth Street, 617-338-4333
www.flourbakery.com

Flour Bakery & Cafe is a small sandwich and pastry shop that serves pain aux raisins ($2.50) for breakfast and made-to-order salads for lunch. It opened behind the just-expanded and just-reopened Boston Children’s Museum (300 Congress Street, 617-426-8855; www.bostonkids.org), known for its science playgrounds and hands-on activities.

The Providence Athenaeum

By Chrissie, 22 November, 2009, No Comment

The Providence Athenaeum, whose roots go back to 1753 and which moved to its present building in 1838, is one of about 20 historic membership libraries around the nation that continue to play a vibrant role in the cultural lives of their communities — and welcome the curious.

Via Roger Mummert of The New York Times

Some of these membership libraries, including institutions in Philadelphia; St. Johnsbury, Vt.; and La Jolla, Calif., bear the title athenaeum, a Greek term for a place of learning, culture and discourse that stems from Athena, the goddess of wisdom and the arts. In the first half of the 19th century, the athenaeum concept — a library that is also a center for edification in the arts and sciences — was popular in the United States. “From the time of our founding, this was a gathering place,” Ms. Maxell said.

(Some early athenaeums, like those in Nantucket and Pittsfield, Mass., have become public libraries, while the Wadsworth Athenaeum in Hartford now operates primarily as an art museum.)

Today, the Providence Athenaeum attracts more than 50 members and guests for Friday night discussions on culture and history. “We started serving sherry, and we’re scouring antique stores for more sherry glasses,” Ms. Maxell said of the popular series.

As if tailor-made for a weekend getaway, a series of historic athenaeums lines up along a virtual Athenaeum Alley in New England. Open for visits are athenaeums in Newport and Providence, R.I.; in Boston and Salem, Mass.; and in Portsmouth, N.H.

Visiting these bookish sanctuaries, which are housed in historic buildings in a number of architectural styles, provides an opportunity to touch remnants of American history. Many of the same books, newspapers, maps and documents that were read in colonial times can be viewed, admired and (with some limitations to nonmembers) handled.

Visitors to the Redwood Library and Athenaeum in Newport, the oldest lending library in America, can survey at close range the 755 titles in the library’s Original Collection. This is a selection of books that 46 educated Newport residents collectively purchased from England in 1748; they built the library to house the collection.

“These are some of the same books that residents of Newport carried around these streets in 1750,” said Cheryl Helms, the director, standing in the Harrison Room in the original part of the building, the first private Palladian-style structure built in the colonies.

Many volumes concern law and theology, while others describe science and practical matters (making beer and how to build a privy). Ms. Helms explained that while rare books of this era need to be viewed by arrangement, they are, indeed, there for the reading.

“This is not wallpaper,” she said. “These books are meant to be used, and they are.”

Last year, the Redwood had 18,000 visitors. Many wanted to view its collection of furniture, sculpture and painting (there are six signed Gilbert Stuart portraits and two other paintings attributed to him). Frequently, scholars make arrangements to delve into vast resources on local and colonial history.

THE New England athenaeums I visited on a recent trip maintain not only active memberships, but also some peculiar terminology. Members are commonly called proprietors; some athenaeums distinguish share-holding proprietors from a second tier of members, called subscribers. At the Portsmouth Athenaeum, the director is called the keeper.

Many athenaeums maintain lists of rules that spell out consequences for offenses like writing in books. Some prohibit pens and provide pencils for notation, as well as cotton gloves for handling aged materials. Large or old books often must be rested on wedge-shaped foam cradles to protect brittle spines.

Surprisingly, the Boston Athenaeum permits dogs — those that behave, a staff member was quick to add.

These athenaeums also provide, in those areas where talking aloud is encouraged, lively opportunities for exchanging ideas with other devotees of literature, arts and sciences.

“In addition to having access to our book stock, members find intellectual stimulation in our exhibitions and by being part of discussion groups,” said Richard Wendorf, director and librarian of the Boston Athenaeum and the editor of “America’s Membership Libraries” (Oak Knoll Press, 2007), which details histories of 16 of the largest membership libraries.

More than 150 events, from afternoon teas to lectures and concerts, are held there each year. Members also may participate in any of a dozen discussion groups (fiction, mystery novels or World War II history, for example). Visitors, Mr. Wendorf added, are welcome to enjoy art exhibits on the athenaeum’s first floor while experiencing a remarkable work of 19th-century architecture. Tours of the building are given Tuesdays and Thursdays by appointment.

L. A. Burdick Cafe & Chocolate Shop

By Chrissie, 22 October, 2009, No Comment

L. A. Burdick @ Harvard Square Cafe
52-D Brattle Street
Cambridge, MA 02138
Phone: 617-491-4340

www.burdickchocolate.com

L. A. Burdick, a cafe and chocolate shop on the other side of Harvard Square. Choose from dark, milk or white chocolate, and if you dare risk overdosing, try one of Burdick’s famous chocolate mice on the side.

Walden Pond State Reservation

By Chrissie, 22 October, 2009, No Comment

Walden Pond State Reservation is just off Route 2, 18 miles west of Boston, Walden Pond’s public beach, walking trails and reproduction of Thoreau’s cabin and cairn teem with tourists in the summer. But when the calendar — and the weather — turns in September and October, the 462-acre state park is nearly deserted. Early in the morning the half-mile expanse of Henry David Thoreau’s favorite watering hole is a great spot for open-water swimming, and open-minded thinking.

Jay Atkinson writes in the New York Times:

Thoreau was known for his thrift, and I’ve followed his example by having a raw-food energy bar for breakfast and borrowing a state parking pass from my hometown library, saving myself $5. Crossing Walden Street with my gear, I’m serenaded by twittering birds and a last, insomniac cricket. The sun is rising above the wall of trees surrounding the pond, and at the far end of the beach, beyond the shuttered pavilion and empty lifeguard stand, the first blush of autumn has appeared on the oaks and maples. A pair of flip-flops and two or three mesh bags are lined up on the low stone wall bordering the strand; I can make out the heads of several swimmers churning their way toward the far bank. There’s no one else in sight.

Stripping down to trunks, I tug on a sleeveless wetsuit, strap on goggles and zero-out the timer on my watch. Spires of mist rise from the pond, which is flat and black and still. Wading into the pebbly shallows I throw water onto my neck, make the sign of the Cross and dive in. The water is significantly colder than the air, and the gasp reflex sends a spasm down my neck and through my torso. Then I set off.

Thoreau wrote, “Time is but the stream I go a-fishing in.” Out on the pond the sharp intake of my breath echoes in my head with every pull, while each head-tilt produces a snapshot of the rising sun. Thoreau noted that his fellow Concordians once thought the pond bottomless, and staring into the milky-green depths I can understand why. A so-called kettle hole formed by a melting glacier, Walden Pond is 61 acres in total area and 102 feet deep.

In a few minutes the layer of water between the wetsuit and my skin warms up, insulating me from the cold, and I marvel at the slanted sun reflecting off the pond onto the trees. After listening to Neil Young on the drive I can hear “Hey Hey My My (Out of the Blue)” playing in my head along with this celestial light show.

Fifteen minutes into the swim I pop up to get my bearings. Coming the other way, another swimmer is thinking the same thing, and suddenly we’re facing each other, 10 yards apart and a hundred yards from shore, blinking through our goggles. It’s like running into a neighbor on another planet.

“Good morning,” he says, and I respond in kind, feeling like a character in an Antoine de Saint-Exupéry story.

Counting strokes induces a trancelike state, helping me overcome the weariness that sets in during long, cold swims. I lose track somewhere around 750 and go streaming onward, my breath coming in just the right rhythm so I don’t feel tired, only exhilarated.

At one point it seems as if I’d risen into the air above my swimming self and were looking down at a pair of churning legs and the thin white trail I’m making across the pond. It’s one of those transcendent (or perhaps Transcendentalist) moments that make all the pain worthwhile.

In 1845 the iconoclastic Thoreau built his tiny cabin beside the pond, where he grew a garden, worked sporadically as a hired man and announced his intention to “live so sturdily and Spartan-like as to put to rout all that was not life.” After some time I arrive at Thoreau’s Cove, a shallow inlet close to where he lived for two years and two months. I stand in the waist-deep water, looking up at the cairn that marks the site, and a red maple leaf drifts past, a symbol of the Canadian weather that will soon be coming our way. I snatch it up and stow it under the chest plate of my wetsuit, and resume swimming.

Nothing lasts — especially not a New England summer — and I want to wring every stroke, every breath, every passing thought and sensation from the sanctifying waters of the pond.

Mount Auburn Cemetery in Cambridge

By Chrissie, 22 August, 2009, No Comment

Mount Auburn Cemetery in Cambridge (580 Mount Auburn Street; 617-547-7105; www.mountauburn.org).

America’s first horticultural cemetery and it’s so popular that they rent out audio headsets! Created in 1831 the landscape is laced with ponds and streams, filled with birds and they have two chapels filled with stained-glass windows.

Best of all visiting and touring are free and all the trees/shrubs from all over the world are labeled.